Lidewij Edelkoort © Robin de Puy
_O_n May 22, trend forecaster Li Edelkoort will give a seminar “AW20-21 BROWN AGE” at the Alvin Johnson/J.M. Kaplan Hall (66 West 12th Street) in New York. Here follows a brief description of the topics that will be discussed. Tickets are available here.
9:00 doors open
9:30 BROWN AGE – Autumn / Winter 2020-21 presented by Li Edelkoort
11:00 short break
11:20 RECREATION – Casualwear trends & colours – presented by Philip Fimmano
12:00 Ask Li – Open discussion with Li Edelkoort
12:30 approximate end
Brown is a lively tint composed of several others, therefore it is able to adapt and create dialogue with all the variations of colour this season; the presence of brown changes these other hues and can turn a whole wardrobe around, igniting new life in all surrounding colours. When opposed by black, grey or white tints tend to be sharp and in contrast yet the warmth of brown, camel and beige takes the edge off these same harmonies, making them cosy and comforting for the eye. The innate happiness obtained from the simplicity of brown – as in the sphere of a potato, the grace of a ceramic jug, the organic shape of a wooden plank or the silence of a linen canvas – is creates a sense of belonging and a sensation of being rooted, of feeling a deep connection with materials made by hand, made by man, made with respect for all. The hues of earth and minerals, pigments and roots, clay and sand, as well as natural dyes such as tea and onion, embed brown as with a universal value, recognizable by all, a rare common language of colour that is in favour of the planet, able to adapt and live a longer life than most other tints. Shades of brown exude quality and longevity and therefore incarnate the luxury colour range of the future.
With the importance of brown comes the need for abstraction, of finally growing up and leaving story telling behind. Materials will be judged on their own merit, clothes constructed for their own function, details designed for their own strength of expression; a spherical and cultured style of garment making. Restructuring versus deconstructing, reshaping a more positive period to come. Also rethinking the fashion system and its rhythm. Textiles will include certain key qualities such as corduroy and velvet, moleskin and denim, brushed cotton and felted woollens, leathers and nylons and teddy and terrycloth. All matter needs to be tactile and vital. Browner shades will dominate abstract jacquards, traditional blanket patterns and folkloric stripes. But in a contemporary twist we will witness that brown will give grace to fluid fabrics, giving innovation to metallic qualities and making laces nude and tender, heralding a new era of softer sensuous lingerie. Therefore this season is the great turnaround stylish society has been waiting for, renewing fashion and design from within with a clear and activist undertone, harvesting equality and creativity in equal portions.
Times are changing and so are casualwear, activewear, workwear and all other expressions of leisure clothing. For the first time in fashion history they are merging amongst themselves and even with fashion itself, creating a new hybrid category that I now call recreation. The term feels new and fun because it says what it is all about; people taking time to rest and restore, and clothes taking time to evolve, all in the process of being recreated. Illustrating how creativity will help us enjoy time off with our hobbies, activities and sports. Shapes can go from body-conscious to super-oversized; these influences overlap, where bodywear is worn with outerwear and even one-of-a-kind fashion items. A long skirt counterbalances very casual outfits, for example, or very normal basics are cut up and layered to become new icons. Furthermore the issue of seasons and gender become increasingly obsolete as well, blending summer and winter qualities and reversing the male/female rules. This all seems to combine into a huge hybrid field, creating a fluid fashion of casual clothes to play with and enjoy.